How to Apply Ithmid Kohl: The Traditional Step-by-Step

Real ithmid is a mineral stone, ground by hand into a very fine powder. There is no wax, no oil and no synthetic binder, which is why it never looks like a hard drawn line: it settles at the root of the lashes and diffuses into a soft, smoky shadow. If you want the full background, read what ithmid kohl is and why it is nothing like regular eyeliner.

Because it is a loose powder, ithmid is sold in a small pot or bottle with an applicator called a mirwed or mkhala. You will find both formats in our Eyes & Kohl collection.

Our ithmid kohl with a hand-carved juniper wood applicator comes in two traditional versions, "hot" and "sweet". The names come from Moroccan tradition, and the colour and texture of both are deep and fine. Sweet is usually described as the gentler of the two, so if this is your first ithmid, it is the natural place to start.

The set includes a 20 g container, the juniper mkhala and a matching wooden case, which makes it a lovely first kit or a gift for someone who already loves kohl.

• Ithmid kohl powder, 20 g — traditionally ground, in a glass bottle with its applicator.
• Ithmid kohl with juniper wand — choose hot or sweet; the wooden case keeps the wand clean between uses.
• A clean, dry tissue or cotton pad to tap off excess powder.
• A mirror and good daylight, at least the first few times.

Work on clean, dry skin with no cream around the eyes, so the powder sits evenly. Go slowly the first time; the gesture becomes natural after a few days.

1. Check the wand: make sure your applicator is clean and completely dry. Moisture makes the powder clump.
2. Load lightly: dip the wand into the pot, turn it once and lift it out. Tap it gently on the rim or on a tissue so only a fine veil of powder remains.
3. Position the wand: look straight into the mirror, hold the wand horizontally and rest it lightly at the inner corner of your eye, along the root of the lashes.
4. Close and draw: close your eye softly over the wand and draw it slowly outwards in one smooth movement. Do not press. The powder transfers to the lash line.
5. Open and check: blink a couple of times and look. If any powder has fallen on your cheek, sweep it away with a dry cotton pad.
6. Build if you like: repeat once for a deeper line, reloading very lightly each time. Two thin passes look better than one heavy one.

For daytime, one light pass is enough: it defines the eyes without looking like makeup. For evenings, add a second pass and extend the line a few millimetres past the outer corner, then soften the end with a fingertip.

Kohl is traditionally paired with a touch of colour on the lips and cheeks. A traditional aker fassi lip and cheek stain completes the look in seconds; see how to use aker fassi as a tint and blush. It is a classic pairing for brides too, as we describe in our guide to Moroccan bridal beauty rituals.

A few simple checks help you avoid imitations sold under the name "kohl":

1. Texture: real ithmid is a fine, dry, loose powder. It is never a cream, gel, pencil or pressed cake.
2. Ingredients: the list should be short and clear, with no wax, binder, perfume or added colourant.
3. Format: it is sold loose in a small pot or bottle, usually with a wooden or traditional applicator.
4. Transparency: the seller should show real photos and state what is inside. We do this on every product page, and explain why in how we work with Moroccan cooperatives.

Ithmid is a cosmetic for external use, worn purely for its look, and we make no claim about any effect on the eyes. A few rules keep it pleasant to use:

Remove kohl every evening with your usual gentle eye makeup remover or a cotton pad and water, and never sleep with heavy powder on the lids.

Wipe the wand with a clean, dry tissue after each use. From time to time, wash it with a little mild soap and water, then let it air-dry completely before it goes back near the powder. Store the pot tightly closed, upright, in a dry place away from the steam of the bathroom.

Looking for a gift? The Moroccan Beauty Secrets set brings together ithmid kohl powder, aker fassi, rose water and prickly pear seed oil; more ideas are in our Moroccan beauty gift guide. Every order is dispatched within 1 working day and shipped worldwide with FedEx International Priority, with a tracking number (shipping details).

Shop the ithmid kohl with juniper wand