Hot or Sweet Ithmid Kohl: How to Choose and Use the Juniper Applicator

Ithmid kohl is a fine, dark powder used in Moroccan tradition as an eyeliner. Instead of a pencil or a liquid pen, you use a small stick. You dip it in the powder and draw it along the lash line.

The result is a soft, smoky and deeply dark line. It looks different from a waxy pencil, and it feels different too. If you want the full comparison, our explainer What Is Kohl Ithmid — And Why Is It Nothing Like Regular Eyeliner? walks through it.

Here, we treat kohl as what it is in our shop: a cosmetic. We describe how it looks, how it applies and how it has been used in tradition. We make no health or vision claims.

Let's be upfront. There is no single, recognised definition of "hot" or "sweet" kohl. Sellers use the words in different ways, so the same name can mean different things from shop to shop. For the exact details of the version you are buying, read the description on the product page, such as the one for Authentic Moroccan Ithmid Kohl (Hot/Sweet) with a handcrafted juniper wood applicator.

As a common way of describing them, "hot" is often understood as the more intense option, and "sweet" as the softer one. Please take that as a general habit of speech, not a rule.

If this is your first time, or your eyes tend to feel sensitive, start with the sweet version. Use a very small amount and see how it feels. Comfort varies from person to person. If your eyes feel uncomfortable at any point, stop using it.

Because the names are loose, the label and the seller's answers matter more than the words "hot" or "sweet". Here is what to look for.

1. Ingredients. Some kohl is a single-ingredient powder. Other sellers blend in botanicals such as date seed or cloves. Read the list so you know which one you are getting.
2. Mineral base and safety information. Sources disagree about which mineral is used. Ask the seller for documentation or testing information about the mineral and its safety.
3. External-use labelling. Look for clear "external use only" wording.
4. Texture. A fine, even powder is easier to apply in a thin line.
5. Packaging. A glass bottle or wooden container that closes well helps keep the powder dry.
6. Promises. Be wary of anyone who makes health, vision or lash-growth claims about kohl.

The traditional tool is a hand-carved wooden stick. You dip the tip in the powder and draw it along the lash line. The set with the juniper wood applicator follows that tradition.

Because each stick is handmade, the shape varies a little from one to the next. That is part of the charm of a handcrafted piece.

Wood does need some care. Check that the tip is smooth before every use. Never use a stick that is splintered or chipped, and replace it if it gets damaged. We do not make any special claims about juniper wood. We simply like it as a traditional, handmade tool.

The method is simple. Go slowly, and keep the line thin to begin with.

• Start with clean hands, clean eyes and a completely dry applicator.
• Dip the tip lightly into the powder, then tap off the excess.
• Draw along the lash line in one slow, steady motion.
• Begin with a thin line and build it up gradually.
• Keep the stick away from the surface of the eye.
• Wipe the tip clean, close the container tightly and keep it dry.
• Store it out of reach of children.

Want more detail?

Our full guide, How to Apply Ithmid Kohl: The Traditional Step-by-Step, covers the technique in more depth.

Kohl is for external use only. Do a small test first, and stop using it if you notice any irritation. Never share your applicator with anyone else.

If you wear contact lenses, have any eye concerns or are pregnant, check with your doctor before using kohl. This is a general precaution.

Ready to look? The shop has two kohl options. One is the hot/sweet kohl with a juniper applicator. The other is the finely ground kohl in a glass bottle with a traditional applicator. You can browse both in Eyes & Kohl. For the cultural side, read Moroccan Bridal Beauty Rituals: Hammam, Kohl and Aker Fassi.